Kyrgyzstan – Lenin Peak

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  • Duration: 22 Days
  • Grading: 5E
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Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak (7134m) is a border mountain between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in the Trans-Alay Range and Pamir Mountains. The peak is also one of the three 7000m mountains in Kyrgyzstan. The other two are Pobeda Peak (7439m) and Khan-Tengri Peak(7010m).

Lenin Peak (7134m), Peak Pobeda (7439m) and Khan Tengri (7010m), together with Peak Communism (7495m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105m), are the five 7000m mountains in the former USSR. Together, the five mountains formed the renowned and prestigious Snow Leopard Trophy. To climb all five admits you to the elite group climbers known as Snow Leopards, which are predominantly made up of Russian climbers.

Generally Lenin Peak is the starting point for climbers attempting the Snow Leopard Trophy. It is also considered one of the least technical 7000m mountains to climb and has by far the most ascents of any 7000m mountains in the world. Because of its reputation of being one of the easiest 7000m mountain and the hospitable culture in Kyrgyzstan, it has become one of the most popular peaks in the world and annually receive hundreds of climbers from all over the world. The only contender of being the most popular 7000m mountain is perhaps Muztagh Ata (7509m) in China.

About The Climb

The ascents from the Tajikistan side are very uncommon due to Tajikistan’s history of  brutal civil wars and still has a bad reputation of being a dangerous place. Easier access and routes and hospitable surroundings are the main practical reasons why a vast majority choose to climb from Kyrgyzstan side.

There are several routes for climbing Lenin Peak and the classical route is from the north side. The classical route is generally straightforward, though with glacial crevices between Camp 1 and Camp 2, steep ridges after Camp 3 and potential avalanche danger.

The climb typically starts with a long drive from Osh to Achik-Tash Base Camp (3600m), situated in the alpine meadows dotted with nomadic families on the grasslands.

Before heading up to the high camps, climbers usually stay at the base camp for around 2 days and go for acclimatization hikes to up to 4000m nearby to the waterfall and the ridge Petrovsky Peak.

There are 3 high camps – Camp 1, Camp 2 and Camp 3. Climbers will, as part of the critical acclimatization phase, do a sweep up from base camp to Camp 3, before descending to base camp to recover and prepare for the actual summit attempt, repeating the climb from base camp to Camp 3.

Camp 1 (4400m) is located on a moraine with comfortable accommodation and facilities similar to the base camp. The start of the trek from the base camp to Camp 1 is on a flat pasture known as the Onion field. Beyond Onion field, the terrain is a gradually ascend through alpine meadows, the Puteshestvennikov Pass, and along the slope of the ridge of the Lenin Glacier. This segment of the trek is a fairly easy and pleasant walk of about 6-8 hours, typically snow-free or with little snow.

At Camp 1, climbers will stay for 2 days. During the 2 days, climbers can go for a climb in the nearby peaks like Home Peak (4700m) or Yukhin Peak (5100m) and go through basic ice and snow skills – movement across glacier, work in a rope team, climb and descent on a fixed rope and ice axe self-rescue etc.

For Camp 2 (5300m) and Camp 3 (6100m), the accommodation and facilities are bare with only sleeping tents. Climbers are expected to be self-sufficient to carry own personal gear, including food, cooking equipment, sleeping bag and mat etc, as well as, prepare and cook own meals and boiled own drinking water etc. Some climbers also opt to carry and pitch own tents.

The trek from Camp 1 to Camp 2 can be said to be the hardest and longest of the high camps’ segment. Mountaineering/double boots and crampons are required from this segment onward.  The ascent is along the northern slope of Lenin Peak to the left of the icefall and require rope up to cross the multiple glacial cracks. The upper part of the route goes to the right, before the big ice plateau named “Skovorodka”.  It is necessary to cross the plateau from the left to the right to reach Camp 2, which is located on the upper moraine at the foot of the Northern-West crest. It is necessary to cross the plateau from the left to the right.  It can take easily 9-10 hours to reach Camp 2 from Camp 1.

From Camp 2 to Camp 3 is short but steep climb of around 5-7 hours on snow slope to the North-Western crest. The route takes to the left before the steep ascend to the top of Razdelnaya Peak. Camp 3 is located on the wide dome of the Peak. After a night in Camp 3, climbers will descend to the base camp to rest, recover and prepare for the summit attempt.

The repeat climb from base camp to Camp 3 will take less time and efforts after the acclimatization phase.

The summit attempt will start before dawn. The route descends to the col, followed by a sharp ascend to the wide western crest of Lenin Peak, before coming to a wide ridge to a steep snow-ice rise known as the “Knife” at 6700m. From here, it is a fixed rope section to reach a vast, flat and  icy plateau (named Parashutist) where the route is a section of flat rocky hills to the top. The turn around time is 2pm. Climbers who do not reach the summit before 2pm  must turn back and descend to Camp 3.

After the summit and a night rest at Camp 3, climbers descend to Camp 1 to stay another night before finally descend to the base camp for a well deserved rest and celebration!

Trekking Seasons

The best months to climb Lenin Peak is in summer from July to mid August. The temperature are the warmest, weather most stable and best snow conditions.

While the mountain can be climbed in the other seasons, it is rarely attempted. Winter is too frigidly cold and spring sees sudden violent storms and deep snow which make attempts very hard with avalanche danger. In autumn, the snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and makes progress on the peak harder.

Experience Required

Experience in climbing 6000m mountains and basic mountaineering skills (crampons, rope up, fixed rope and ice axe self-rescue etc) are essential. There are no easy mountains and certainly no easy 7oooers. You will require excellent stamina and determination to cope with long arduous days. You will be carrying a load of 16-20kg from Camp 1 to Camp 3, wearing mountaineering/double boots and crampons in a rope up team, in harsh and extreme mountain conditions, from 5100m to 6100m. You are also required to cook your own meals and boil your own drinking water at Camp 2 and Camp 3.

Equipment and Gear

Alpine climbing clothing (thermal base layer, down mittens, down jacket, insulated outer shell pants and outer shall jacket etc) is required.

You will also need the following climbing equipment:

  1. Mountaineering or double boots
  2. Crampons
  3. Climbing harness
  4. Walking ice axe
  5. Sewn slings
  6. Ascender & abseil devices
  7. Locking karabiners

A packing list will be provided to all our participants. Please refer to our Resource Centre page to learn about the layering system and choose the right gear/equipment for your trek.

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DAY DESCRIPTION MEALS
1

Arrive Bishkek.

Overnight: Bishkek hotel (800m)

-/-/-
2-4

Flight to Osh. Transfer to Osh-Achik-Tash – Lenin Peak Base Camp. Next 2 days acclimatise with hikes around the base camp to 4000m and sort out gear/equipment for the climb.

Overnight: Tent at Base camp (3700m)

B/L/D
5-7

Approach trek to Camp 1. Next 2 days hike to Domashniy Peak (4700m) or Yuhin Peak (5100m). Skills training on rope up, fixed rope, ice axe self-rescue, etc..

Overnight: Tent at Camp 1 (4400m)

B/L/D
8-9

Approach trek to Camp 2 & Camp 3.

Overnight: Tent at Camp 2 (5300m), Camp 3 (6200m)

B/L/D (self-carried / prepared meals in Camp 2)
10-12

Descend to Base Camp. 2 rest days.

Overnight: Tent at Base camp (3700m)

B/L/D
13-15

Approach trek to Camps 1, 2 and 3.

Overnight: Tent at Camp 1 (4400m), Camp 2 (5300m), Camp 3 (6200m)

B/L/D (self-carried / prepared meals in Camp 2 and 3)
16

Summit day. Return to Camp 3.

Overnight: Tent at Camp 3 (6200m)

B/L/D (self-carried / prepared meals in Camp 2 and 3)
17-18

Descend to Base Camp via Camp 1.

Overnight: Tent at Camp 1 (4400m), Base camp (3700m)

B/L/D
19

Spare day in case of bad weather. If not used, stay at base camp.

Overnight: Tent at Base camp (3700m)

B/L/D
20

Transfer to Osh.

Overnight: Osh hotel (1000m)

B/-/-
21

Flight to Bishkek.

Overnight: Bishkek hotel (800m)

B/-/-
22 Depart Bishkek B/-/-

 

DATES PRICE
29 Jun – 20 Jul 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
06 – 27 Jul 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
13 Jul – 3 Aug 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
20 Jul – 10 Aug 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
27 Jul – 17 Aug 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
03 – 24 Aug 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
10 – 31 Aug 2021 $3,270.00 (SGD)  / person
  • Dates listed are for open international group
  • You can also form a private group. For enquiry, send an email to us at contact@aceadventure.com.sg
Inclusions
  • Return airport transfer in Bishkek and Osh
  • Retun domestic flight Bishkek-Osh ( 15kg baggage. Extra load at about USD2-3 per kg)
  • All land transfer as indicated in itinerary
  • Meals as indicated in itinerary
  • Boiled drinking water in base camp and Camp 1
  • High altitude food for Camp 2 & 3 (self cook)
  • Accommodation: local hotel in Bishkek and Osh (twin/triple sharing) and in tent (twin-sharing) in Lenin Peak
  • Base camp facilities: First aid and consultation of doctor, electricity and hot shower
  • Trek support: mountaineering guide(s)
  • Climbing group equipment:  Rope(s)
  • Cooking equipment: gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
  • Permits & fees: Registration with rescue team, ecological fee and climbing certification
  • Visa support (if needed)
Exclusions
  • International air tickets, airline taxes and fuel surcharge
  • Visa Fee (if any)
  • Single Supplement
  • Meals not indicated in itinerary
  • Drinking water in Camp 2 and 3 (self collect to boil)
  • All tipping
  • Personal porters*
  • Personal travel insurance (mandatory to cover travel agent insolvency and mountaineering to 7500m. The amount of coverage must be at least USD30,000 with USD10,000 for emergency evacuation)
  • Personal expenses like shopping, laundry etc
  • Personal travel & climbing gear/equipment
  • Compensation for damaged or lost of personal items (eg: climbing/trekking gear and equipment, cameras and any valuable items etc)
  • Emergency evacuation and medical expenses
  • Any expenses including accommodation, meals & transfer outside the stipulated trek/climb itinerary – i.e. any person leaving the group for personal travel, illness/injury or any form of extension of stay

Prices for person porters (per way) :

BC – C1: USD3/kg
C1 – C2: USD6/kg
C2 – C3:USD8/kg
C1 – C3: USD14/kg

Support from Ace Adventure Expeditions

We provide pre-trip support to prepare you for the climb:
1. Trip briefing and information kit
2. Gear list and gear discount from selected Singapore outdoor outfitters
3. Training guideline kit
4. Rope skill workshop (For climbs that require rope up and/or fixed rope skill)

We carefully select and establish strong working relationship with our local operator to ensure safe participation by everyone. Our local partner is the biggest and most established Lenin Peak local ground operator in Kyrgyzstan.

Visa

Holders of ordinary passports issued by the following countries do not need a visa to enter Kyrgyzstan as long as their trip does not last longer than the visa-free period listed below.

Duration

Countries

Unlimited

Azerbaijan, Armenia, Belarus, Cuba, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Moldova, North Korea, Russia, Tajikistan, Vietnam

90 days

Mongolia, Serbia, Ukraine

60 days

Andorra, Argentina, Australia, Austria, Bahrain, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Oman, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, San Marino, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Switzerland, Sweden, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, United States of America, Uzbekistan, Vatican

30 days

Malaysia

Citizens of all countries, including China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan, can apply for an e-visa from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs through the www.evisa.e-gov.kg website. Processing takes 5 working days, and the price will depend on the duration (from 30 to 90 days) and the number of entries. Payments can be made with VISA and MasterCard. 
The electronic visa is valid for arrivals and departures at Manas International Airport (Bishkek), Osh International Airport (Osh), and various land crossings with China, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.

For latest updates and details of visa application, please visit www.evisa.e-gov.kg.

Money

Currency exchange services are available at hotels, banks and moneychangers. Banks and moneychangers accept most major currencies like USD, EUR and GBP. Note that neither banks nor moneychangers will accept any foreign currency that is torn, marked, excessively crumpled, or defaced in any way, so be sure to carefully check any notes you intend to bring into the country for defects. Watch out also for differing small-bill (USD20 or less) and large-bill (USD50 or more) rates; the bigger bills get better rates. Check and count your cash carefully before leaving a moneychanger. Do not fall prey to petty cheats.

Outside of the major cities, banks and moneychangers are scarcer so make sure you carry enough cash.

Kyrgyzstan is still very much a cash economy. Credit cards are rarely used. ATMs are common in Bishkek, but less available in small towns.

Electricity

Kyrgyzstan’s electricity is 220V and 50HZ. The plugs used are the two narrow round pins Type C and Type F, which are commonly used in Europe.

Language

Being part of the former Soviet Union, the official language used is mainly Russian especially in the cities. As you move out into the rural areas, Kyrgyz, a Turkic language, is more commonly spoken by the nomadic Kyrgyz people. English is gaining popularity but still spoken only by those serving tourists.

Drinking Water

Tap water is said to be potable in Bishkek but safer to rely on bottled or boiled water. For the rest of the country, it is better to drink bottled water that is readily available, or boiled water at camp.

Tipping

Tipping is generally not practiced in Kyrgyzstan, except for tour/trek guides, porters and long haul drivers. Tipping in hotels is also not expected, with the bellman or porter being the exception. You should plan on tipping the hotel porter $1 per bag and perhaps a little more at a higher end hotel.

Full service restaurants typically impose a service charge and that is usually considered to be sufficient. Tipping is also not expected in taxis and drivers would usually return your change.

 
Travel Safety Advice

With evolving world situations that may occur unexpectedly due to natural disasters, pandemics/epidemics, conflicts and unrests, it is best to read up and keep tabs on news and developments at your destination country and region before the trip. Check on the country’s official website and/or your own foreign ministry website for any travel advisory or safety precautions to be taken while abroad.

As with traveling in anywhere in the world, regardless of the local crime rate, stay vigilant and take care of personal safety. Good to read up on any possible exposure in the country prior to departure.

It is a good practice to register with your respective foreign ministry if there is such a service provided to citizens, to contact you in order to make sure that you are safe and, if need be, assist you should an emergency (e.g. natural disasters, civil unrest, etc.) occur when you are overseas.

For Singaporeans, this is the link to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ eRegister:
https://eregister.mfa.gov.sg/eregisterportal/common/preLoginEregisterView.action.

 
Travel Insurance

It is highly recommended to purchase comprehensive travel insurance(s), upon payment of your trip, to cover adverse situations that may occur while you are overseas or even before departure. Ensure that the coverage is suitable for your destination and the activities that you are participating in. Be familiar with the terms and conditions before purchasing and travelling abroad.

 
Travel Immunization Advice 

There is no compulsory vaccine to be taken to enter Kyrgyzstan. You should, however, be up to date on routine vaccinations, especially vaccines against water-borne, food-borne, parasitic and other infectious diseases (examples: hepatitis, typhoid and tuberculosis) while traveling to any destination. You are encouraged to consider having vaccinations before you travel. At least eight weeks before you depart, make an appointment with your doctor or travel clinic for a basic health check-up, and to discuss your travel plans and any implications for your health, particularly if you have an existing medical condition.

Recommended routine vaccinations for travellers in general:

Hepatitis A

Spread through consuming contaminated food and water or person to person through the faecal-oral route. Risk is higher where personal hygiene and sanitation are poor.

Hepatitis B

Spread through infected blood and blood products, contaminated needles and medical instruments and sexual intercourse. Risk is higher for those at occupational risk, long stays or frequent travel, children (exposed through cuts and scratches) and individuals who may need, or request, surgical procedures abroad.

Rabies

 

Spread through the saliva of an infected animal, usually through a bite, scratch or lick on broken skin. Particularly dogs and related species, but also bats. Risk is higher for those going to remote areas (who may not be able to promptly access appropriate treatment in the event of a bite), long stays, those at higher risk of contact with animals and bats, and children. Even when pre-exposure vaccine has been received, urgent medical advice should be sought after any animal or bat bite.

Tetanus

 

Spread through contamination of cuts, burns and wounds with tetanus spores. Spores are found in soil worldwide. A primary series of 5 doses of tetanus vaccine is recommended for life. Boosters are usually recommended in a country or situation where the correct treatment of an injury may not be readily available.

Typhoid Fever

Spread mainly through consumption of contaminated food and drink. Risk is higher where access to adequate sanitation and safe water is limited.

Influenza

A vaccine specific for a given year to protect against the highly variable influenza virus.

For more information and professional advice on travel vaccinations, please consult your doctor or travel clinic.

For people residing in Singapore, you may visit The Travellers’ Health and Vaccination Clinic (THVC) at Tan Tock Seng Hospital:

Travellers’ Health & Vaccination Clinic
Address: Level 4, Clinic 4B, Tan Tock Seng Hospital Medical Centre
Contact number: 6357 2222
Website : https://www.ttsh.com.sg/Patients-and-Visitors/Medical-Services/Travellers-Health-and-Vaccination-Clinic/Pages/default.aspx.